ENERGY

Growing puppies need twice as much dietary energy, on a per-kilogram basis, as do adults. This need is greatest just after birth and then decreases as the dog matures. Excessive dietary energy may support a growth rate that is too fast for proper bone development, resulting in an increased frequency of skeletal disorders in the large and giant breeds. Because fat has twice the calorie density of protein or carbohydrate, dietary fat is the primary contributor to excess energy intake.

Not only does excess energy result in rapid growth, but dietary energy in excess of the puppy’s needs will be stored as fat and hence predispose the dog to juvenile obesity. Fat puppies will increase the number of fat cells they have (called fat cell hyperplasia) and are then predisposed to obesity for the rest of their lives.

Body condition scoring (BCS) evaluates body-fat stores, confirming if the energy intake is suitable. Maintaining a proper BCS during growth not only avoids juvenile obesity but also help to control excessive growth rates. Limiting food intake, while avoiding deficiencies, to maintain a lean body condition will not impede a dog’s ultimate genetic potential, but it will reduce food intake, fecal output and obesity, as well as lessening the risk of skeletal disease.

ENERGY REQUIREMENTS

Energy requirements for the healthy adult dog are, of course, highly individual, but they are largely affected by the individual’s:

• Breed
• Activity level
• Sex
• Age
• Environment

The amount of food fed ( and therefore the calorie or energy intake) should be varied to achieve a healthy, lean body condition.

FAT REQUIREMENTS

The minimum amount needed for healthy adult dogs is at least 5 per cent DMB ( dry matter basis ) with at least 1 per cent DMB being linoleic acid ( an essential fatty acid for dogs). By increasing the amount of fat in the food, palatability can be enhanced and the essential fatty acid level increases. This can be beneficial in improving skin and coat condition.

PROTEIN

Although puppies need more protein than adult dogs, any protein in excess of what is needed for growth may be converted to energy, and so increase the growth rate. Protein deficiency during growth has been shown to be harmful. The minimum, adequate level of dietary protein will depend upon its digestibility, its amino-acid profile, and its ratio of essential amino acids. A growth food should contain at least 22 per cent protein ( on a dry matter basis) of high biological value. Once the puppy reaches maturity. this level maybe reduced.

The amount of protein in commercial foods for healthy, adults dogs varies widely (15 to 60 per cent DMB). Once the individual’s amino-acid requirements are met, there is no benefit to be gained from additional protein. Remember that excess protein, above the amino-acid requirements, is not stored as protein, but id detoxified by the liver and kidneys. A food containing protein levels of 15-30 per cent DMB, will provide adequate protein for the healthy, adult dog.

MINERALS

The intake of too much calcium is more common than the intake of too little. This is because of the tendency to overfeed and to supplement the diet with additional minerals and vitamins in the form of powders, tablets and capsules. Adding high-calcium foods (such as milk, bone meal, and treats) also affects the growth ratio.

A high intake of calcium has the effect of inhibiting the natural remodelling process of bone that has to occur during development in response to the changing stresses on the skeleton. Over-nutrition may result in skeletal disorders in adulthood, especially in large breeds.

Optimum skeletal development for a puppy is achieved by feeding a minimum level of 1 per cent calcium on a dry matter basis. This level is desirable for larger breed puppies whose adult body weight will be more than 25 kgs (55lbs). For smaller-breed puppies the maximum recommended level is 2.5 per cent.

FEEDING METHODS

FREE-CHOICE FEEDING

This is an effortless way to feed growing puppies. Frequent trips to the always-full food bowl may help to limit boredom. Timid or non-thrifty animals have less competition when eating, as they can choose to feed at quieter times. However, free-choice feeding encourages overeating, which increases the risk of developmental bone disease. Therefore, free-choice feeding methods are not recommended for all “at risk” breeds until they have reached skeletal maturity (12-18 months of age, or at least 80 per cent of their adult weight and height)

The at-risk breeds include: Bernese Mountain Dog, German Shepherd Dog, Golden Retriever, Great Dane, Labrador Retriever, Mastiff, Rottweiler, Bulldog and crosses involving these breeds.

TIME-LIMITED FEEDING

This feeding method can be used for most breeds. The food is only available for a set period two or three times daily, leading to reduced intake in most breeds. This slightly reduced intake results in slower growth rates but does not diminish the adult size achieved. Close attention should still be paid to the total amount of food consumed, since certain individuals (greedy feeders) are still able to consume large amounts of food during this limited time period. If this method is chosen, it is recommended to allow three 5- to 10- minute feeding periods for the first month after weaning, reducing to two per day after that.

FOOD-LIMITED FEEDING

This is the best method for feeding puppies to maintain optimum growth rate and body condition. Food-limited feeding involves giving a measured amount of food based on a calculated energy requirement. This will have been done by the manufacturer and is indicated in the feeding guide. Clinical monitoring of growth and adjustment of feeding amount are critical. Large- and giant- breed dogs grow rapidly and thus have steep growth curves. Their intake should be monitored closely and will have to be adjusted more frequently than that for dogs of smaller breeds. These at-risk breeds should be weighed, evaluated and have their feeding amount adjusted every two weeks. This is still an uncommon approach to feeding many puppies. Many owners do not want the bother of calculating feeding amounts on such regular basis, but in many cases it can be a valuable step towards a healthier puppy.

Regardless of a food’s nutrient profile and how it is fed, the ultimate measurement of appropriate intake is the physical condition of the puppy. The ribs should be palpable with a thin layer of fat between the skin and the bone. The bony prominences should be easily felt with a slight amount of overlying fat. Animals over six months of age should have a pronounced abdominal truck when viewed from the side and a well-proportioned lumbar waist when viewed from above.

Nutritional management alone will not control developmental bone diseases since they are multi-factorial and include the dog’s genetic make-up. However, skeletal diseases can be influenced during growth by feeding technique and nutrient profile. Dietary deficiencies are of minimal concern now that most dogs consume commercial foods specifically prepared for young, growing dogs. The potential harm comes from over- nutrition – from excess consumption and over-supplementation. It is not only important to feed the appropriate food, but to feed the food appropriately.

Symptoms
Once an unprotected dog is exposed to the virus, it only takes about 5 days to show signs of the disease. These signs can include loss of appetite, lethargy, fever, vomiting, and profuse and usually bloody diarrhea. Death occurs in severe cases, usually as a result of dehydration, overwhelming infection, or shock. This is especially true in young unprotected dogs (especially puppies between weaning and six months of age), although dogs of any age can become infected. Certain breeds such as Rottweiler and Doberman pinschers are at higher risk.

Parvoviral infections can occur inside the uterus during pregnancy or shortly after birth, causing acute inflammation of the puppies’ heart muscles (called myocarditis). While this was quite common in the early days of the disease, this rarely occurs now since most dams are protected against the virus (usually via vaccination) and pass on their immunity to their puppies.

Parvoviral enteritis is often suspected when bloody diarrhea occurs in a dog. A simple test is available that can be performed quickly and inexpensively at a veterinary hospital. Fortunately, most dogs recover with early treatment. In fact, if an animal can survive the first 3-4 days of illness, a full recovery can be anticipated barring an unforeseen complications.

Treatments
Since the virus is so tough and can survive in the environment for such a long time, it is almost impossible to prevent exposure. Vaccination is the only truly effective way of preventing and controlling this disease. Your veterinarian can advise you on which vaccination schedule is best suited for your dog.

Causes
Heartworm is transmitted to dogs, cats and other animals by mosquitoes. Over 70 species of mosquitoes have already been implicated. Transmission of the parasite occurs when a mosquito draws blood from a heartworm infected dog or cat. Once inside the mosquito, the microfilariae develop into larvae. Later, when the mosquito bites a new victim, the larvae are injected into the dog, thereby causing the infection. It generally takes about six to seven months for the larvae to mature and to start producing the microfilariae inside the dog or cat’s circulatory system. The adult worms end up occupying the right chamber of the heart and the pulmonary arteries, while the microscopic microfilariae circulate throughout the bloodstream. All these worms within the blood vessels produce an increased workload on the heart, along with restricted blood flow to the lungs, kidneys, and liver, eventually causing multiple organ failure. At first, pets may exhibit a chronic cough and/or reduced exercise tolerance, followed by sudden collapse and death.

Treatments
Once infected, your pet can easily become a "carrier" or reservoir of the infection for an entire neighborhood. Sometimes a dog or cat may have heartworm disease but show no symptoms. It’s important to note that by the time the symptoms become apparent, heartworm is well advanced. While there are effective treatments available, veterinarians prefer to promote prevention of heartworm disease. Oral and topical medications that are administered monthly and have shown to be highly effective in preventing heartworm disease are available from your veterinarian.

Many people think that culprit that is toxic to dogs in chocolate is caffeine. It is not. While chocolate does have caffeine, it is the theobromine in chocolate that is the potential dog killer. Theobromine and caffeine are both from the methylxanthine family of chemical compounds, a family of stimulants.

How much theobromine is in chocolate? Theobromine levels will vary according to manufacturer, but in general, white chocolate has one milligram per ounce of theobromine, milk chocolate has forty-four milligrams per ounce, and semi-sweet chocolate has one hundred and fifty milligrams per ounce. If your pet gets into your hot chocolate, it will drink thirteen milligrams per ounce of hot chocolate that it slurps up. Bakers chocolate is by far the worst, with three hundred and ninety milligrams of theobromine per ounce.

How much chocolate will kill a dog? Part of equation has to include the age and health of your pet. If your dog is twelve years old and does not get around as well as it did in the past, a smaller amount of chocolate might be lethal to it than it might have been if your pet was two years old and spending the day chasing cats and birds. In general, theobromine is toxic to dogs when dogs eat one hundred to one hundred and fifty milligrams of it.

How much chocolate is this it real terms? To be on the “safe” side, consider one hundred milligrams of theobromine to be toxic. After all the math is done, roughly twelve ounces of milk chocolate is going to be very dangerous for a twelve pound dog or one ounce of milk chocolate for every pound that a dog weighs. If your dog weighs thirty-six pounds, eating twelve ounces of semi-sweet chocolate will get your canine very ill. The ratio for semi-sweet chocolate is one ounce for every three pounds your pet weighs. If your eighteen pound dog gets into your bakers chocolate, it will only take two ounces of bakers chocolate for the theobromine to be in the toxic range, or a ratio of one ounce to every nine pounds that your pet weighs. Remember that dogs do not seem to taste bitterness, so that even though bakers chocolate does not taste go to you, your pet will still think it a treat. White chocolate will make your dog sick because of the fat content long before the toxic levels of theobromine are reached, but still should be avoided as a treat for your pooch.

What are the symptoms of chocolate poisoning? Your dog might start to vomit or have diarrhea. It might start to tremble for no reason, be over-excited, or actually start to have seizures. It may fall into a coma and ultimately die. The best thing to do for your pet is to get it to your veterinarian within two hours of the ingestion.

Also, keep in mind that chocolate has a half-life of seventeen and one half hours. This means that only half of the chocolate your pet ate will be out of its system after this time period has passed. If your dog gets into chocolate twice within a twenty-four hour period, it could still be in danger because not all of the chocolate that it ate the first time has worked its way through your pet’s body.

So, do not encourage your dog to eat chocolate in any form. Once dogs develop a taste for chocolate, they will want to eat it. And remember the next time you leave that twelve ounce package of semi-sweet chocolate out before you make chocolate chip cookies that you had better keep an eye on your dog, because your dog is probably going to be keeping an eye on that package of chocolate chips.

The first step to rabies control in pets is vaccination. All healthy pets should be vaccinated. The rabies vaccine is very effective, costs very little, and it is usually given every 3 years. In horses, it is usually given every year. In most localities, the law requires rabies vaccinations for all pets. The second step to rabies control is a thorough understanding of this terrible disease so that high-risk exposures or contact can be prevented. The third step to controlling of rabies is cooperation between veterinarians, the public, the public health system, and government agencies to monitor and control rabies on a regional level. For example, in some parts of Canada, bait is dropped from airplanes into rural or countryside areas so that wildlife will eat the bait (disguised as food treats) laced with an effective protective vaccine. Public health departments also track and manage human exposures. Rabies moves to and from animals and people through a bite wound or through breaks in the skin or mucous membranes. It’s thought that people can become infected by breathing air around bats, such as in bat caves where the virus is suspended in droplets in the air.

Rabies is almost always certainly fatal. Recoveries are rarely reported. Once the virus enters the body of the animal or person, it travels to the central nervous system along the nerve fibres. It sets up a base in the brain and spreads back out into the body using the nerves to move around once more. The virus particles end up in many body tissues. Of particular importance are the salivary glands (the glands that produce saliva). Once rabies viruses enter the salivary glands they are present in large numbers in saliva and can be easily spread between animals or to people via licking or biting.

Symptoms
Once infected, animals may show widely differing symptoms depending on what stage of the infection they are in. Early in the infection (prodromal) they appear completely normal. This pre-symptom phase can last for long periods of time. A bite on the face will tend to lead to a shorter prodromal phase since the virus is close to the brain, while a bite on the tip of the tail or paw may result in a long phase because it takes longer for the virus to travel to and from the brain.

For a few days at the very end of this prodromal or normal-behaviour phase, rabid animals can pass the virus on to other animals or people. This is the greatest time of risk because the typical rabies behaviours are absent. Once clinical signs of illness start, the animal only has about a week to live. Typically a phase occurs where rabid animals becomes very nasty, and will be irritable and snap and bite without being provoked or bothered. They may attack. This phase is termed furious rabies because the animal seems uncontrollably angry. Finally, the animal becomes progressively paralyzed (termed dumb rabies) and dies because the muscles for control of swallowing and breathing (amongst others) lose their function.

Unfortunately, not all cases follow typical progressive symptoms. For example, rabid cats often become overly friendly and affectionate rather than vicious. They can snuggle up to a child and suddenly lash out with teeth and claws after appearing quiet and nice. A dog may just show what appears to be a paralyzed tongue hanging out. The dog may be quiet, with jaw hanging open and saliva dribbling out of the mouth. One might think he had something like a stick stuck in the roof of his mouth! How about a cow that is restless, foaming at the mouth and when approached, is irritable and grabs a person? Though cows do not have a pile of sharp teeth at the front of their mouth like dogs or cats, this can result in a bite that breaks the skin. How about a pony in a petting facility that gets "nippy" and bites those passing by? Affected animals may also have trouble drinking or eating, and run a fever.

Do these stories sound far fetched? They are all cases veterinarians have seen in practice, so never forget that any animal acting in any unusual fashion can be showing signs of rabies! That is why rabies is called the great pretender. It can look like many other conditions, and can be very different from the vicious biting rabid animal image we hear about.

Causes
There are several possible reasons for constipation. Diet appears to play a significant role. For example, when a dog swallows foreign materials such as hair, bones, garbage, cloth or rocks, it can lead to constipation. Prolonged lack of exercise, a change in surroundings, or a change in daily routine (i.e. stress) can lead to constipation problems as well. In these cases, pets may become reluctant to relieve themselves and become constipated. Some medical problems such as infected anal glands or a fractured hip can cause painful defecation and result in constipation. Some pets may have an intestinal obstruction or a nerve or muscle disorder.

Certain drugs can also cause constipation. Drugs such as antihistamines and motility modifiers (e.g. Immodium) can cause the intestines to slow down, resulting in constipation. In fact, laxatives themselves can in some cases make matters worse.

Treatments
How can constipation be prevented? Regular grooming will prevent excessive hair ingestion and regular exercise will encourage bowel regularity. A newly formulated hairball prevention diet that is commercially available dissolves hair ingested via daily grooming and is available through your veterinarian. Access to a frequently-cleaned litter box (in dogs, frequent opportunities to defecate) is important. Lubricant laxatives can also be effective. These usually contain a combination of mineral oil and/or petrolatum along with a flavor base. They soften and lubricate feces and thereby make it easier to expel. Nutritionally pets should avoid bones, have access to fresh water at all times, and be fed a high fiber diet. Your veterinarian can advise you which steps are best suited for your pet.

Nutrition plays a major part in a Bulldog’s health. There are many owners who feel that giving it the leftovers from meals three times a day will be enough, but it never is. Filling its stomach till it isn’t hungry anymore just doesn’t cut it. Like people, they too have daily nutritional needs which has to be complied. Instead of feeding it table scraps, you can feed it commercial dog food instead. Read the nutritional facts on it and see if it’s compatible with your dogs nutritional diet as suggested by your veterinarian. In general, feeding it three times a day is recommended, rather than giving it one mountain meal a day.

Make this a habit, and remember never to overfeed your Bulldog. Having a stuffed balloon-like dog can be very cute and works well with catching the attention of others for your own personal benefit, but it can have many bad effects on the pooch. Overfeeding can cause it to bloat, which can lead to all sorts of problems that can be fatal if left unattended. Eating too much can also lead to obesity, which can also lead to the rise of many secondary diseases. For those out there too scared to buy commercial food because of some issues surrounding them, it’s okay.

Hearing about somebody’s pet dying from eating branded food can cause anyone to doubt the credibility and safety of all commercial dog foods. That’s what made homemade food preparations popular. You the owner can decide exactly what to feed your dog, and how to prepare it. You’ll be certain that all ingredients are fresh and properly processed. Before you go about this, it’s best you consult a veterinarian first - or if you really want to be cheap, search the net for free information. Following a certified safe recipe is important. Knowing nothing about something can kill - some ingredients can really have bad effects on your pet and sometimes lead to death.

You don’t have anything to worry about if you’ve done your homework and know what and what not to feed your dog. Regular exercises is also needed for keeping good Bulldog health. Have it tag along during walks and jogs. Playing with it is also a great form of work-out. Keep your daily routines consistent and fun. Don’t forget to pay visits to your vet for check-ups and advice. And finally, keep emotionally attached with it. Showering it with love and care will give it something to live for, prolonging its life.
 

Firstly you have to understand what sort of breed of dog you have and what it is bred for? For example a German shepherd is bred to be a guard dog so will bark as a warning of danger. If you understand why the dog is barking you have a start to solving any dog barking problems.

If you want to stop dogs from barking all together you will be unsuccessful! You should not be trying to stop dogs from barking all together. Dogs are naturally designed to bark, that is obviously how they communicate. The main problems occur when there is nuisance dog barking behavior.

You are the boss and have to make sure your dog is aware of this. This does not mean you have to use force or punishment as a form of training but you do have to be consistent. Your dog will naturally bark to warn you of any danger. This is not bad behavior. If your dog continues to bark however, this is when you have to be firm with your dog. Do not be bullied by him. A happy and well behaved dog is one which knows its place in the pack and that is naturally below you. You are the one who has to assert themselves or you will be bullied by your dog.

The secret to dog training and to alleviating dog barking problems is to be consistent as I said previously. If you have a new puppy you will be able to commence this training as soon as the puppy arrives in your home. To stop puppies barking it is important to reinforce your position as head of the pack. Praise your dog or puppy for warning you of some perceived danger but if the dog or puppy continues to bark after you have praised it then you must stop reacting to the puppy or dog and even turn your back. This may seem harsh but using your body language is part of the training you have to adopt to train your dog or puppy effectively.

Most dog barking problems are due to the owner not understanding their dog and not understanding why the dog is barking. All dogs want to please the head of their pack, that is you and you must understand your dog. Only consistent training will achieve this.

There are a number of foods that can create serious health problems for your dog and unfortunately not many people of aware of this. These foods include cooked as well as uncooked chocolate, onions, bones, mushroom, macadamia nuts, garlic, avocados, grapes, raisins, and all spicy or greasy foods.

Most pet owners have, at one time or another, fed their dog foods containing onion such as pizza, hamburger, general table scraps or gravy. A small amount is not likely to cause a problem since onion toxicity depends on the quantity of onion ingested. However, onions in any form including cooked, raw, dehydrated or powdered can create a serious life-threatening form of hemolytic anemia in dogs.

All red blood cells carry a protein called hemoglobin which delivers oxygen to our tissues and organs and our dog’s tissue and organs. Onions contain a substance called thiosulphate which dogs and cats are unable to digest. Garlic also contains thiosulphate but in much lesser amounts. Thiosulphate causes oxidation of hemoglobin in your dog’s red blood cells, which then forms lumps and weakens the cell membranes. These lumps, called Heinz bodies, protrude from the cells and eventually cause the cell to rupture and die. When enough red cells are destroyed the body becomes starved for oxygen and goes into a state of anemia.

A decrease in the red blood cell count can cause a multitude of health problems for your dog including heart failure. The number of cells destroyed usually depends on the quantity of onion consumed. However, some dogs have developed serious reactions even after eating just a small amount of onion. Furthermore, small amounts of onion fed over an extended period of time can create illness just as a one-time larger dose can, due to the gradual accumulation of Heinz bodies.

Sometimes it takes several days for symptoms to begin to appear. Symptoms include but are not limited to: vomiting, weakness and lethargy, difficulty breathing, diarrhea, cyanotic (pale or bluish) gums, blood in the urine or feces urine, decreased appetite, jaundice, and rapid heart rate. Severe onion toxicity can be fatal for your dog.

If you suspect your pet has onion toxicity contact your vet immediately. If the onion ingestion was recent, intravenous fluids are generally a sufficient treatment. If the state of anemia is severe, a lengthy hospital stay and a blood transfusion might be needed.

Using common sense is the best way to prevent onion toxicity in your dog. Onions are very common in many human foods including even baby foods. Onions can be found in everything from sandwich meats, fast foods, spaghetti sauces, salsas, gravies, to vegetable juice. Check the ingredients carefully in any table scraps before giving them to your dog. Never add onions in any form to homemade dog food recipes. Lastly, make sure your garbage is kept covered and dog-proofed.