Archive: Frequently Asked Questions

How to puppy and kitten proof your house

Kittens and puppies are curious , which can often lead to serious injury. Here are some tips on how you can make your house safer for the new arrival.

 

Chewing Habits-When your pet is young it will probably be teething and wanting to chew whatever it can, keep wires out of reach

They’d die for some chocolate - as discussed multiple times here, keep chocolate out of the reach of these hungry little critters

Watch those Treats - Never give turkey, chicken or rib bones as a treat. They can splinter and cause serious injury.

Common household killers -Cleaning agents, bleach, ammonia, disinfectants, drain cleaner, oven cleaner, paint, gasoline, rat poison. Keep them locked up.

Anti-freeze - Pets are attracted to the smell and taste of antifreeze. Store it high and seal it tight ,keep the floor clear of any drippings

Poisonous House Plants - Poisonous plants include lilies, philodendron, dieffenbachia, elephant ear, eucalyptus, spider plants, azalea, ivy, amaryllis, pyracantha, oleander, boxwood, Jerusalem Cherry and plant bulbs.

Keep the lawn clear- If you treat your lawn with chemicals, keep pets away for obvious reasons.

Take care of personal care items and medications - Cosmetics, shampoos, skin creams, hair “perm” solutions, depilatories, suntan lotions, sleeping pills, antihistamines, aspirin and acetaminophen can all be lethal to pets.

No paper or plastic- Keep those shopping bags off the floor as your curious pets could suffocate themselves

Hot Hot Heat – Keep an eye out for hot irons, coffee pots and space heaters.

A dip tip - Keep covers on hot tubs and swimming pools. Kittens and even young puppies can fall in and not be able to get out.

Fire screen- Always use a fireplace screen.

Do you eat with that mouth? - Rule of thumb: If any or all of something will fit in a mouth, it’s dangerous. Watch out for cigarette butts, rubber bands, balloons, sewing needles, thread, string, ribbons and, yes, even pantyhose. Because what goes in must come out, often via surgery.

Dogs and Chocolate Toxicity

We all know the golden rule. Its embedded in all dog owner’s brains. DO NOT GIVE THE DOG CHOCOLATE!. Why is this? basically because chocolate can be poisonous and perhaps lethal if ingested by your dog and left untreated . The culprit of the poison in chocolate is not caffeine as many dog owners seem to think but rather the theobromine in chocolate that is the potential dog killer. Theobromine and caffeine are both from the methylxanthine family of chemical compounds, a family of stimulants. Theobromine levels will vary according to manufacturer, but in general, white chocolate has one milligram per ounce of theobromine, milk chocolate has forty-four milligrams per ounce, and semi-sweet chocolate has one hundred and fifty milligrams per ounce. Bakers chocolate is the worst with 300 milligrams per ounce. How much chocolate will kill a dog? It will depend on the age and health of your pet. If your dog is older and has trouble getting around the house then even a small dose may be lethal. In most cases theobromine is toxic to dogs when dogs eat one hundred to one hundred and fifty milligrams of it. In more non medical terms a ounce of chocolate per year of your pets age (ex 11 years old = 11 ounces of chocolate) is the best equation to go by. Some symptoms of dogs getting into chocolate are vomiting and diarrhea. Also keep in mind Chocolate has a half-life of seventeen and one half hours. This means that only half of the chocolate your pet ate will be out of its system after this time period has passed. If your dog gets into chocolate twice within a twenty-four hour period, it could still be in danger because not all of the chocolate that it ate the first time has worked its way through your pet’s body. Keep this in mind next time you leave that delicious hershey’s bar lying around your apartment or home. If your dog does get its paws on your chocolate call your veterinarian immediately or call the ASPCA poison control center at (888) 426-4435

A Few Rules For You and Your Pet to Obide by during a Natural Distaster….

1.Always Heed a Warning from local news or government agencies.
You can never really predict nature, so please if you are told to evacuate a area do so. If you do not , realize that not only are you putting yourself in danger but your pet as well.

2. Stay calm and never leave your animal unattended. I know this is very hard during such chaos but know that if you are calm your animal will remain calm. If you must attend to a deed without your pet please find somebody trustworthy to care for your animal while you are doing so as the last thing you want to deal with is losing your pet.

3.Be prepared with  a medical supply kit. This pertains to you and your pet both.

4.Have a local veterinarian business card handy along with a Animal Shelter Location and phone number. If your pet is injured do not panic and call your veterinarian. If your vet is not available  then the animal shelter may be helpful in finding you one that is available or may be able to assist you in finding other ways to attend to your wounded pet

POST-OPERATIVE INSTRUCTIONS FOR CATS

What should I do when my cat arrives home after its operation?
After arriving home, you should keep your pet warm and comfortable by providing a soft clean bed, ideally in a quiet and draft-free room at approximately 68 -72°F (20 –22°C). Unless otherwise instructed, your cat should be given ample fresh water. After a few hours, a small amount of food may be given. Please keep your cat indoors overnight, or longer if instructed, and allow the use of a litter tray. You should discourage any jumping or activity that will cause excessive stretching of the wound, especially during the first few days post-operatively.

My cat seems very sleepy, is this normal?
Your cat has been given a general anesthetic or a sedative. These drugs can take a number of hours to wear off and may cause some patients to appear drowsy for a day or so. Over the next day or two their behavior should return to normal, however if you are at all concerned, do not hesitate to contact the hospital.

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FAQ’S ON FELINE CASTRATION OR NEUTERING


What is meant by castration or neutering?

Neutering and castration are the common terms used to describe the surgical procedure known scientifically as orchidectomy or orchiectomy.  In this procedure, both testicles are removed in order to sterilize a male cat.

Why should I have my cat neutered?
Neutering is very beneficial to the health of the cat, especially if performed at an early age. Following puberty, which occurs at approximately eight to nine months of age, the male cat often develops a number of undesirable behavioral changes. He will become territorial and start to mark areas, even inside the house, by spraying urine.  This urine has a particularly offensive odor and is difficult to remove. As the tomcat reaches sexual maturity, he will start to enlarge his territory, straying ever farther from the house, particularly at night. It is for this reason that many of the cats that are hit by automobiles are non-neutered males. By increasing the size of his territory, he increases the likelihood that he will come into contact with other cats and will get into fights for territorial dominance. Inflicted fight wounds can result in severe infections and abscesses. Diseases such as FIV and FeLV, which can cause AIDS-like syndromes and cancers in cats, are spread through cat bites, these cats are most commonly affected by such incurable diseases. Last, but not least, neutering prevents unwanted litters and the needless deaths of tens of millions kittens and cats each year.
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